The Soaking Life

The Pursuit of Health, Good Food and Hot Water

May 14, 2012
by Anne Tourney
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Indian Hot Springs Resort, Idaho Springs, Colorado

Mountains around the town of Idaho Springs

“Chthonic” isn’t an adjective that pops into my head very often, but it’s the word that came to mind the first time I entered the geothermal caves at Indian Hot Springs. As I stepped into the underground geothermal baths, I suddenly understood why some religious traditions house their deities underground instead of elevating them to a heaven in the sky.

Sulfuric steam rose from the bathing pools in the women’s cave. Nude bathers languished on marble benches beside the pools, their skin beaded with perspiration. Carved out of Colorado’s Santa Fe Mountain, the cave extends into a series of narrow tunnels. Later I would learn that one of these tunnels is used for private mud bathing by adventurous women who want to explore the recesses of the caves. At the back of the women’s cave is an alcove that connects with the men’s cave, but this passageway is used only for maintenance, and the baths are segregated by gender for privacy. Bathing suits were once prohibited; now nude bathing is optional. Temperatures in the deep walk-in tubs range from 104 to 112 degrees Fahrenheit/40 to 44 degrees Celsius.

I believe that every soaking addict has a peak experience that introduces him or her to the joys of bathing in hot water. For me, that epiphany occurred in the geothermal caves at Indian Hot Springs. The intense humidity of the air inside the caves seemed to squeeze the toxins – both environmental and emotional – from my body. The rough, rust-colored stone walls with their powdery yellow mineral deposits were like the walls of an underground womb. After a stressful series of night shifts at the nursing home where I worked at the time, a night at the caves would ease the tension from my tired muscles and soothe my frayed spirit.

Hallway to the women's geothermal cave

The geothermal caves in Idaho springs originated in the 1850s, when miners who were tunneling into the mountain in search of gold inadvertently struck hot water. The springs themselves were sacred to the Ute and Arapahoe tribes who lived in this region, and the name “Idaho” comes from an Arapahoe word meaning “gem of the mountains.” Today, these mountains encircle the Indian Hot Springs Resort, where guests as diverse as Walt Whitman, Sarah Bernhardt, Billy the Kid and Franklin D. Roosevelt came to take the waters. The geothermal swimming pool is enclosed by  a glass dome and surrounded by tropical plants that thrive in this rarified setting.

The Indian Hot Springs Hotel retains a nostalgic glamour

The resort offers a full menu of spa treatments, from mud baths and massages to body wraps and facials. But spa services at Indian Hot Springs are a relatively new phenomenon. For people with physical and psychic injuries of all kinds, visiting the geothermal caves at Idaho Springs is a pilgrimage. Once a week, once a month or once a year, people go to Indian Springs seeking relief for arthritic joints, aching muscles or swollen tissues. These pilgrims are part of a long tradition that includes President Franklin D. Roosevelt, a strong advocate of hydrotherapy who visited the caves in search of a cure for his paralytic illness. During my own soaking sessions in the caves, I met one woman who soaked in the sulfur-rich waters to relieve the pain of advanced rheumatoid arthritis, and another who integrated balneotherapy into her recovery from a car accident that shattered multiple bones.

Steam rising from one of the walk-in tubs

In the caves, the search for healing overwhelms self-consciousness about nudity. Women with flawless bodies toned by yoga, rock-climbing or aerobics soak in the therapeutic atmosphere along with women whose limbs are weakened or contorted by injury or disease. Thin or heavy, young or old, these bodies absorb the healing heat and soak in waters rich with minerals. Calcium, fluoride, iron, magnesium, selenium, sulfate and zinc make up a brew that promotes tissue regeneration, detoxifies the cells and restores peace to the spirit. Located in Clear Creek County, Indian Springs Resort is 32 miles west of Denver on Highway I-70.

Sources

Cahill, Rick. Colorado Hot Springs Guide. Boulder, CO: Pruett Publishing, 1986.

Indian Hot Springs Resort

 

 

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February 27, 2012
by Anne Tourney
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A Prescription for Soaking: Balneotherapy and the American Medical Community

In Budapest near the Lukacs Thermal Spa, known for its therapeutic water treatments

Imagine going to your primary care doctor to be treated for nagging knee pain and receiving a prescription for soaking in warm, mineralized water once a week for several weeks. Imagine going to a spa in your community that’s staffed by medically trained therapists who could monitor the effects of your treatment. Imagine experiencing less pain and more mobility — and having your health insurance pay for it. It’s a common scenario in Hungary, where physicians can prescribe therapeutic soaking, mud baths, massage or physical therapy in the country’s mineral-rich waters. But the effects of balneotherapy have yet to be sanctioned by the American medical community.

A study published in the 2008 issue of the Israeli Medical Journal indicated that a course of balneotherapy can relieve pain and improve motor function in elderly adults suffering from chronic lower back pain and arthritis of the knee. Study participants were prescribed fifteen 30-minute balneotherapy sessions at a spa in Debrecen, Hungary. The participants who completed the study showed increased mobility and a reduced need for anti-inflammatory medications for three months after the study. Could studies like bring balneotherapy into the medical mainstream in the US? When it comes to validating the therapeutic properties of mineralized water, the American medical community is still waiting for proof.

Healing Waters in the United States

Balneotherapy is nothing new in North America. Native Americans used geothermal springs for therapeutic and ceremonial purposes for over 10,000 years. Native Americans considered the springs to be sacred, and that even during times of conflict, members of warring tribes could bathe without fearing for their safety. By the turn of the 19th century, the medicinal properties of geothermal water had taken on a faddish popularity. “Taking the waters” became a widely accepted ritual, and claims of the curative powers of geothermal water reached outlandish proportions. By the 1940s, US law prohibited these claims, and business in the classic spa towns declined.

Today, the use of hot springs for therapeutic purposes in the US is largely limited to health spas, where rejuvenation and stress reduction are the primary goals. While many spas publicize the mineral content of their waters and promote their healing benefits, there is no medical organization in the US that establishes standards for the mineral concentration of medicinal waters. There is also no clinical body dedicated to the study of the therapeutic effects of healing springs. The majority of the clinical literature on balneotherapy comes from Europe and Japan, where the use of mineralized waters for medicinal purposes is widely practiced.

In Japan and Europe, legally regulated standards for medicinal waters have been in place for years. But in the US, the use of medicinal water has yet to be widely accepted as a therapeutic practice. Is it possible to validate the effects of balneotherapy in the United States, so that medical treatment through mineralized water can be prescribed by medical practitioners, clinically monitored and possibly even covered by health insurance?

Looking to the Future

In the 21st century, a renewed focus on alternative therapies has led to a revival of interest in hot springs bathing. But in North America, this interest is still marginalized, and there is little exploration of the specific benefits of balneotherapy. Nathaniel Altman points out that the difficulty of applying accepted standards of clinical testing, such as the double-blind study, to balneotherapy has been an obstacle to research in this area in the US.

When we praise the benefits of balneotherapy for joint and muscle pain, skin disorders, respiratory conditions and digestive ailments, how do we know which elements of bathing produce these benefits? In an article published in the September 2010 issue of Health, Csaba Varga of the University of Pecs in Hungary discusses the challenges of classifying medicinal waters according to their therapeutic effects. Although medicinal waters contain specific salts that have been linked to specific health benefits, it’s difficult to isolate the properties that make these waters beneficial. Along with the therapeutic benefits of heat, which improves circulation and eases musculoskeletal pain, geothermal waters contain a combination of mineralized salts and organic compounds that are difficult to reproduce in a clinical scenario.

Water has been used as a therapeutic medium for centuries, and many US physicians write prescriptions for water therapy. In some cases, insurance providers will even pay for treatment if it involves a form of heat therapy, physical therapy or massage in the water. But will the medical community credit the water itself, and the minerals it contains, with easing the symptoms of arthritis, psoriasis, or fibromyalgia? In a 2004 issue of Rheumatology International, Dr.  Tamas Bender and co-authors propose that the therapeutic effects of balneotherapy, or bathing for therapeutic purposes, be  studied separately from hydrotherapy and spa therapy, so that the benefits of each form of treatment can be accurately assessed.

Varga calls for a reclassification of medicinal waters based on 21st century water analytics, including a consideration of the organic compounds present in spa waters. Without a new body of clinical data, persuading the American medical community to take a stronger interest in the therapeutic potential of balneotherapy will be challenging. And while your body may respond positively to the effects of soaking in mineral-rich geothermal waters, convincing insurance companies to pay for treatment may require more clinical evidence.

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Sources

Altman, Nathaniel: Healing Springs: The Ultimate Guide to Taking the Waters. Healing Arts Press: 2000.

Geo-Heat Center: “Historical Impacts of Geothermal Resources on the People of North America“: John W. Lund.

Health: “Problems with classification of spa waters used in balneology“; Csaba Varga; Vol. 2, No. 11; September 2010.

Israeli Medical Association Journal: “Balneotherapy in Elderly Patients: Effect on Pain from Degenerative Knee and Spine Conditions on Quality of Life“; J. Gaal, M.D., et al; May 2008.

Rheumatology International: “Hydrotherapy, Balneotherapy and Spa Treatment in Pain Management“; Tamas Bender, et al.; July 15, 2004.

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February 20, 2012
by Guest Blogger
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Experiencing the Thermal Baths of Budapest: An Afternoon at St. Luke’s

Outdoor Thermal Swimming Pools at St. Luke's, Photo by Krisztina Fazekas

 We are delighted to present a guest blog by Jessica Kulick, professional travel writer, photographer and global couch surfer extraordinaire. You can follow Jessica’s adventures and read more of her witty insights at her blog, Of Revolt.

Photographs were graciously contributed by photographer Krisztina Fazekas. View her collection of photographs of Hungary at her website, Erre-Arra. 

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Question: Are you afraid of portly old men wearing Speedos? Answer: Of course you are. Everyone is. But that shouldn’t stop you from enjoying what was easily my favorite attraction in Hungary: the thermal baths of Budapest.

After a particularly Palinka-drenched evening (which, let me be the first to tell you, that stuff is deadly: a very smooth and ever so slightly fruity liquor, usually produced in the Hungarian countryside by people who know what they’re doing), my host – a Budapest native – took my fiancé and I to recuperate in a nearby bath house known only to locals: Saint Luke’s.

Before I regale you with the miraculous hangover cure known only as “Fun Swimmie Time,” I shall furnish you with a little history: Saint Luke’s (Lukacs Thermal Bath) has been in operation since the 12th century, when knights of the Order of Saint John settled in the area to make use of the thermal hot springs as a means of curing the sick. The baths stayed in operation throughout the Turkish occupation, though the energy of the springs was used mainly for grinding wheat and producing gunpowder.

In 1884, Fülöp Palotay (don’t ask me how to pronounce it) purchased the baths from the government and so began a series of transformations: the baths became world-famous for their therapeutic properties, and patients who had come and been healed donated marble plaques that were displayed in the bath’s courtyard as a sign of their thanks – all of which can still be seen today. LET’S SKIP FORWARD A FEW HUNDRED YEARS, OKAY? We don’t have all day.

Indoor Round Pool, photo by Krisztina Fazekas

Nowadays, Saint Luke’s has much more than a simple soaking tub and drinking fountain – in fact, we spent nearly three hours there and I felt like I could have stayed longer. There is a dry sauna, a wet steam room, a cold plunge pool (extremely delightful when you’re feeling overheated), multiple thermal baths all set to different temperatures, and (my favorite) the “Fancy Pool”: a rather large (not gigantic, but definitely “I wish this was in my backyard” big) swimming pool equipped with a whirling corridor (WHIRLPOOL!), underwater effervescence (BUBBLES!), neck shower (WATERFALL!), as well as a water beam back massage hidden in the seat banks (WATER BEAM BACK MASSAGE HIDDEN IN THE SEAT BANKS!).

Saint Luke’s is not the most well-known of Budapest’s many bath houses: the Szechenyi and Gellert are the most popular with tourists, and though they’re a little more upscale, that also means they’re a little more expensive – and definitely more crowded. I really enjoyed the relaxed, easygoing feeling of Saint Luke’s: Hungarians of every age and body type were soaking in the mineral-rich baths, and all were mercifully clothed in swimsuits. (I’m shy, okay?) The heated outdoor “Fancy Pool” felt especially luxurious: nothing beats floating in blissfully warm waters, watching the sun set behind exquisite Art Nouveau architecture, letting the steam cloud your vision – it all lends itself to a feeling of extraordinary well-being.

Patron Testimonials at St. Luke's Thermal Bath, photo by Krisztina Fazekas

At one point, after doggy-paddling my way around the whirlpool, I turned to my fiancé and said, “I think this is the best thing we’ve done in all of Europe.” All of Europe! He replied that it was just the toxins escaping my body and that I had no idea what I was saying. But it was true: at that moment I felt more perfectly content with myself and the world than at any other time in recent memory.

And you know what else? The next day my skin looked GREAT.

Sources:

Budpest Spas

Lukacs Thermal Bath Budapest

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Jessica Kulick is a freelance travel writer and photographer. Her work has appeared in such outlets as Literary Traveler, Matador Network, and Spotted By Locals. Her personal website is http://ofrevolt.com, where she blogs about offbeat tourism with a humorous and lighthearted spin.

Copyright Jessica Kulick 2012
Photographs copyright Krisztina Fazekas

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February 7, 2012
by Guest Blogger
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Aguas Calientes de Madre Tierra

The Cabin at Hot Sulphur Springs, Colorado

We are  pleased to present a guest blog by Jan Marie Smith, our water yoga instructor.  Jan is a 30-year aquatic professional who offers aquatic movement workshops, children’s and adults’ swimming classes, private swim clinics and water yoga classes throughout the Southwest. Jan is also a professional chef, a singer and a writer. When she’s not in the water, you can probably find her singing karaoke or whipping up a pie with organic fruit from her own cherry tree.

Photographs of Hot Sulphur Springs as it is today were graciously contributed by Eli Duke. View more of his photos on his Flickr page.

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“Warm Waters of Mother Earth”

by Jan Marie Smith, Water Yogi
www.h2y0ga.net

I was nineteen years old and fresh out of suburbia. Living in the shadows of the Rocky Mountains, I had always been in awe of these giant natural cathedrals. I grew up with the Rockies due west out my backyard — skiing in the winter, hiking, repelling and camping in the summer. I was a mountain girl at heart. And by sheer luck and grace I had ended up as a lifeguard and swim instructor at a historic hot springs in northern Colorado: Hot Sulphur Springs.

Hot Sulphur Springs, by Eli Duke

The year was 1980. The springs had only been owned by two families since the Ute Indians were driven out in the later 1800s. The springs were acquired by William Byers, founder of Denver’s first newspaper, The Rocky Mountain News. I was working for the family that had purchased the springs from the Byers family in the 1940s.

I lived in a cabin above the hot springs that was built in the 1860s. I chopped wood. I cooked on a porcelain wood-burning stove. There was something mystical about the pies that would come out of that old stove. I hauled my own water. My main water source for bathing and showering was the bath house; the smell of sulphur permeated my skin. I soaked in the springs every night.

Organic Cherry Pie by Jan Marie Smith

Sometimes, in the back caves of the bath house, I could feel the spirits of the Utes when I stood or floated in the waters, quiet and still. I could feel their gaze when I walked up the hill to The Cabin at night. Hot Sulphur Springs had been the Ute Indians’ campsite for millennia before the white man drove them out. It is said that they burned everything in their path on their exodus.

Now I was living on their sacred ground. I was becoming acutely aware of a change in body, mind and spiritual patterns. I was living with the energy of the earth and sun and the past and present. The stars cast a never-ending milky way over Mt. Bross, the old mountain that stands in the shadows of the springs like a protective father.

Hot Sulphur Springs, by Eli Duke

So many magical, almost mystical experiences occurred while living at The Cabin. Food tasted better. The smell of sagebrush after a thunderstorm was elixir to the senses. Soul travelers from near and far landed on my stoop the next two summers. The dreams that were formulated there shape my life to this day. How many people get to wake up every day, roll into a hot spring and get paid for it? I worked there off and on for the same family for eighteen years.

Hot Sulphur Springs, by Eli Duke

Many times, life’s road map can be charted in the lines of a person’s face. I “grew up” to be a swim teacher and water movement teacher. I teach people to move in the water through swimming, water exercise and water yoga. My life has been centered around the water and hot springs.  These earthen cauldron vortexes fascinate, soothe, and regenerate me. Hopefully you can see it etched on my face!

Look for my Water Yoga classes and workshops at
The Sand Dunes Pool and
Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort

~Namaste~

*   *   *

Text copyright Jan Marie Smith, 2012
Photographs copyright Jan Marie Smith and Eli Duke

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January 24, 2012
by Anne Tourney
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Spanikopita

Easy, Healthy Spanikopita

Our diet has a heavy Mediterranean accent — not because we consciously chose to follow the heart-healthy culinary traditions of the Mediterranean, but because we love dishes that feature tons of fresh vegetables, garlic, a bit of olive oil and moderate quantities of cheese or eggs. Our second “good food” post features a tasty, easy-to-make Spanikopita, now a regular entrée in our evening meals. Under the flaky, golden phyllo dough crust lies a wealth of vitamins, minerals and protein. A serving of Spanikopita features a generous portion of spinach, which is rich in iron, vitamin K, beta carotene, folate and manganese. This classic Greek dish includes more greens in the form of cilantro or Italian parsley. The onions and garlic in Spanikopita provide the allyl sulfur compounds that promote cardiovascular health and gives these foods their pungent flavor. We use two to three times as much garlic as the original recipe calls for. Eric has tried a few different improvisations on the basic ingredients and they were all equally tasty.
This Spanikopita recipe contains eggs and cheese for protein, and all of the cheeses we use have lowfat or even nonfat varieties. Although we don’t go overboard on eggs, we don’t lie awake worrying about them, either. Eric’s running idol Amby Burfoot, a 1968 Boston Marathon winner and lifelong vegetarian, attests to the health benefits of eggs. A 2011 study published in the European Journal of Clinical Nutrition indicated that there was no relationship between egg consumption and a higher risk of cardiovascular disease in a group of Mediterranean participants.

Spanikopita Ingredients

Ingredients
1/3 cup olive oil
1 – 1 1/2 large onion, chopped
1 large bunch green onions, chopped
6 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 pounds fresh spinach, rinsed and chopped
1/2 cup fresh Italian parsley or cilantro, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh ground black pepper
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1 1/2 cups ricotta or lowfat cottage cheese
6 ounces crumbled feta or extra sharp white cheddar cheese
20 sheets of ready-made phyllo pastry, defrosted
1/4 cup olive oil
Instructions
Prepare all ingredients.
Preheat oven to 350°.
Heat 1/3 cup olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Saute onion, green onions and garlic, until soft and lightly browned. Stir in spinach and parsley (or cilantro), pepper and continue to saute until spinach is limp, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.
In a medium bowl, mix eggs, ricotta, and feta/sharp white cheddar. Stir in spinach mixture.
Lightly oil a 9 x 13″ baking pan.
Lay each sheet of phyllo dough in baking pan, brushing each sheet with olive oil.
Layer:
10 sheets phyllo – make sure it hangs over all sides of pan
All spinach filling
Fold dough over filling to seal it in and brush top with olive oil 10 sheets phyllo – tuck all in at top and brush top with olive oil
Bake in preheated oven for 35 – 40 minutes, until golden brown. Cut into squares and serve while hot.
Sources
WHFoods.org: Garlic
WHFoods.org: Onion
WHFoods.org: Spinach
Photographs copyright Eric Havelock-Bailie, 2012
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December 20, 2011
by Anne Tourney
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Sand Dunes Swimming Pool: Hooper, Colorado

Billboard at the turn-off to the Sand Dunes Swimming Pool & RV Park

Our first visit to the Sand Dunes Pool was a lucky accident. One snowy night, after setting off down a narrow rural highway for an after-dark soak at a hot spring spa about 50 miles from home, we realized that the roads were too slick for the long drive. Instead of continuing to our original destination, we decided to take a detour to the Sand Dunes Pool in Hooper. Because the pool is closer to our home and offers some of the best food in the Valley, it has since become our primary soaking and swimming location. We swim there at least once a week and rejuvenate our joints with water yoga classes. We also buy most of our tomatoes, cucumbers and basil from the Mile Deep Grille, which offers fresh produce grown in geothermal greenhouses behind the pool.

View of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and Great Sand Dunes from the Sand Dunes Swimming Pool

True to its name, the pool offers stunning views of one of the Valley’s major monuments. The indoor therapy pool and outdoor swimming pool are fed by the hot, mineralized waters of an artesian well. From the outdoor pool, you can enjoy sweeping views of the sand dunes nestled against the Sangre de Cristo mountain range. During an early winter sunset, you can join three or four other swimmers who float and bob in the pool as they quietly watch the crystalline full moon rising over the Sangres. On warm summer evenings, the pool is considerably more active, but scheduled lap swims are scheduled in the mornings for dedicated swimmers.  A picnic area, volleyball courts and an RV park are available for families who want to enjoy a geothermal holiday.

We’ve considered buying a few acres outside of Hooper so we could set up a trailer and be closer to the Sand Dunes Pool, but we’re still waiting for those winning numbers from the Colorado Lottery . . . .

The indoor kids' pool

Therapeutic Soaking

The Sand Dunes pool includes a large swimming pool, a children’s pool and an indoor therapy pool for adults. Temperatures in the therapy pool range from 105 to 108 degrees Fahrenheit/41 to 45 degrees Celsius, and air jets turn a simple soak into a jacuzzi-style massage. Air jets are timed in 15-minute intervals, and we usually soak for one 15-minute cycle before heading back to the outdoor pool. According to a 1976 study by the Colorado Geological Survey, the water at the Sand Dunes Pool contains carbonate, bicarbonate, potassium, lithium and iron, among other minerals.

The indoor therapy pool - ages 15 and over

Temperatures in the outdoor pool usually hover between 96 and 98 degrees Fahrenheit/36 to 37 degrees Celsius, but you can find pockets of therapeutic warmth in the shallow end of the outdoor pool. The outdoor pool is equipped with a large shower that sends streams of hot water drumming down over sore backs, necks and shoulders.

The pool offers water yoga, low-impact aerobics and swimming lessons. Our water yoga class, taught by aquatic professional Jan Marie Smith, combines a rejuvenating, holistic approach to exercise with the healing properties of warm, mineralized water. We highly recommend Jan’s water yoga classes as a gentle way to increase flexibility, stimulate the heart and lungs and reduce stress. We go into withdrawals if we can’t get to water yoga in any given week.

The outdoor pool during a morning lap swim

Family Swimming

When we have friends visiting from out of town, we almost always find an excuse to lure them over to the Sand Dunes Pool, especially if they have kids. The Sand Dunes Pool offers swimming and bathing for kids of all ages, from the infants that float in the children’s pool to the older kids who perform acrobatic stunts on the diving boards. Hoops are available for those who enjoy an aquatic game of basketball.  In this park-like setting surrounded by aspen trees, you can sunbathe on lounge chairs, play outdoor games, host a family barbecue or wade in a picturesque stone mini-pool that features a small slide and feeds into a creek.

The gift shop offers a colorful selection of candy, snacks, beverages, pool toys, swimming supplies and first aid products, along with t-shirts and other souvenirs. I like the photo gallery that depicts the history of the pool, especially the photos from the 1930s. The beaming faces of the family in those black-and-white photos don’t look very different from the faces of the families who gather there today.

The Mile Deep Grille

Mile Deep Grille

Eric and I consider the Mile Deep Grille to be one of the best cafes in the Valley. With ripe red tomatoes and basil fresh from the pool’s greenhouse, how can you go wrong? The food is fresh and flavorful, with a number of low-calorie selections, like our favorite caprese salad. The caprese salad combines juicy tomato slices topped with fresh basil and fresh mozzarella cheese, sprinkled with oil and balsamic vinegar. Our other favorites are the chicken cesar salad, the cheeseburger and the sweet potato fries. The spinach salad with tart green apples and sweet, crunchy glazed walnuts is a healthy meal that also appeals to your sweet tooth. The burgers are juicy and inventive and the thick crust pizza rivals the offerings of any other pizza joint in the area. New specials are introduced every few weeks, like the recent Hawaiian burger and the buffalo chicken sandwich. For dessert, there are homemade cookies, frozen  yogurt and sometimes cinnamon rolls or cupcakes. We usually go home with a couple of pounds of their hothouse tomatoes, which make a delicious marinara sauce or salsa.

Location and Hours

The Sand Dunes Pool is located off of Highway 17 outside of Hooper, Colorado in the San Luis Valley. Look for the water billboard, then turn to the west and head for the mountains. Turn left at the end of the road and drive about half a mile down the asphalt road until you get to the pool on the left.

The pool is open every day except Thursday, when it’s closed for draining and cleaning. Regular hours are 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., or 1 p.m. to 8 p.m. from December 1 through February 28. The pool has shorter hours on Halloween, Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve and is closed on New Year’s Day, Easter, Christmas and Thanksgiving.

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Sources

Colorado Geological Survey; Hydrogeological Data of Thermal Springs and Wells in Colorado; J.K. Barrett and R.H. Pearl; 1976.

Sand Dunes Swimming Pool & RV Park.

Water Yoga with Jan Marie Smith.

 

Photos by Eric Havelock-Bailie, Copyright 2011

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December 8, 2011
by Anne Tourney
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Sulfur: The Divine Stink

Mineral deposits beside the wellhead at Jemez Springs, New Mexico

To some of us soaking enthusiasts, the infernal stench of sulfur dioxide doesn’t remind us of pitchforks, hellfire or rotten eggs, but of pain and tension seeping out of sore muscles and joints. We associate the rich, earthy smell of sulfur with the soothing warmth of sulfurous water and the way this mineral leaves our skin glowing after a long soak in a sulfur spring.

Hydrogen sulfide and sulfurated alkaline metals occur naturally in geothermal springs throughout the world. Sulfur arises in areas that have experienced volcanic activity, and the scent of sulfur is reminiscent of the aftermath of an eruption from the bowels of the earth. As one of the most plentiful minerals in the body, sulfur contributes to the formation of the proteins that make up our connective tissues, skin, nails and hair. The pain-relieving properties of sulfur may come from its ability to slow the conduction of pain signals through the nervous system.

Sulfur occurs naturally in many nutritious foods. Onions, garlic, eggs and broccoli get their delightful aroma from sulfur-containing compounds, and meat, poultry, fish, milk, grains and legumes contain this vital mineral. If you eat a balanced diet, you are probably getting enough sulfur from the foods you eat, and nutritional supplementation usually isn’t required. However, taking sulfur supplements orally or absorbing sulfur through balneotherapy may have therapeutic benefits if you suffer from joint or muscle pain, irritated skin or respiratory congestion.

In oral form, sulfur can be taken in the form of methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) or dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) to ease the pain of arthritis.  Topical sulfur-based creams are used to treat shingles, acne and other skin disorders. In hot springs, small quantities of sulfur can be absorbed transdermally or inhaled as a mineralized mist to provide relief from a number of conditions:

  • Arthritis – when absorbed transdermally, sulfur may alleviate the pain and swelling of osteoarthritis, rheumatoid arthritis and psoriatic arthritis
  • Skin conditions -  sulfur eases irritated itchy, reddened, irritated skin and may minimize the symptoms of psoriasis, dermatitis, dandruff, eczema and warts
  • Respiratory congestion – when inhaled as a mist, sulfur has a mucolytic effect, clearing mucus from the lungs and facilitating breathing
  • Liver disorders – sulfur may assist the liver in its detoxifying functions
  • Digestive disorders – sulfur-containing compounds may facilitate digestion and minimize the effects of acid reflux
  • Gynecological disorders – sulfurous water has been used to treat disorders of the female reproductive system

Sulfur-rich mud can be applied to the skin to relieve the symptoms of arthritis, rheumatism or psoriasis. For full-body relief, try immersion in a sulfur mud bath. Therapeutic sulfur mud baths are popular in France, Italy and Japan. We had the opportunity to take advantage of the benefits of sulfur on a visit to Hungary in 2010, where we soaked in sulfurous water and even drank a few sips of this potent brew at the Luckas Spa in Budapest.

Springs rich in sulfur and sulfates are found on almost every continent. A few of the spas known for sulfur include Aix-les-Bains in France, Harrogate in Great Britain, Araxa in Brazil, Beppu in Japan and Calistoga and Palm Springs in the United States. Here in Colorado, sulfurous water can be found at Idaho Springs or Hot Sulphur Springs. This is only a brief list of some of the geothermal sources of this mineral.

If you have the opportunity to visit a sulfur spring, don’t hold your breath; inhaling sulfur vapors may help you breathe easily. Consult your health-care provider before taking sulfur supplements or adding balneotherapy to your personal treatment program.

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Sources

Altman, Nathaniel. Healing Springs: The Ultimate Guide to Taking the Waters. Healing Arts Press: Rochester, VT, 2000.

PubMed Central: Nutrition & Metabolism. (2007) “Are We Getting Enough Sulfur in our Diet?” M.E. Nimni, et al.

University of Maryland Medical Center. Sulfur.

Photo by Eric Havelock-Bailie, copyright 2009. Polaroid photograph. 

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November 26, 2011
by Anne Tourney
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Things to Bring

Like many dedicated soakers, I have a bag of toiletries, clothing and hard-to-define stuff that I take with me whenever I visit a hot spring. The bag represents the end result of a process of elimination; I started out with much more stuff than I currently take with me. Eric’s bag is much more substantial than mine. His bag resembles an alchemist’s kit of lotions, potions and supplements.

Things in my bag:

  • Sunscreen
  • Body soap
  • Razor
  • Thrift store dressing gown
  • Water-logged brochures collected from various springs we’ve visited
  • Generic blue flip-flops purchased at the Tesco in Budapest for use at the Szchenyi Baths

Things in Eric’s bag:

  • Travel size bottle of shampoo
  • Soaps
  • Anti-inflammatory herbal supplements
  • Razor
  • Deodorant
  • Sunscreen
  • Nail clippers
  • Q-tips

After analyzing the contents of my bag and Eric’s bag, we came up with a list of “must haves” for soaking, along with a few extras. Because facilities vary greatly in the items they offer for sale, it’s helpful to be prepared. Whether you’re visiting a remote mountain-top pool or an elite spa, this list may come in handy.

Many spas forbid the use of chemical products before you enter the water, but products like sunscreen and bug repellant are useful for the times when you’re sitting outside the pool, or for body parts that won’t make contact with the water.

So here’s our recommended list of “Things to Bring,” a work in progress:

  • Lots of fresh water
  • Towels – Many facilities rent towels, but you never know
  • Bathing suit – Even if you’re a dedicated naturist, you never know when you might run into your former 6th grade English teacher at a remote mountaintop spring
  • Robe – Robes are always useful, especially if you like to soak in the winter
  • Water shoes with treads (either amphibious shoes, sandals or old running shoes)
  • Waterproof watch – so you can monitor your soaking time
  • Water thermometer – In case you’re a fanatic about temperature and the facility doesn’t provide this information
  • Insect repellant – We recommend natural products made with neem, citronella, lemongrass, eucalyptus oil and other non-toxic repellants
  • Sunscreen
  • Soap
  • Shampoo
  • Q-tips
  • Snacks
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November 6, 2011
by Anne Tourney
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Mystic Hot Springs, Utah

If you happen to be traveling to Salt Lake City via Interstate 70, take a detour through Monroe, Utah to soak at Mystic Hot Springs. Located at the edge of town, the  geothermal pools offer quiet, secluded soaking in a casual, family-friendly setting. No alcohol, drugs or nudity are allowed, yet the overall atmosphere is very warm and bohemian. Hiking trails and parks lie within a few miles of the hot springs, so you can work your muscles and absorb the beauty of nature before sinking into one of the facility’s pools or tubs.

History

Mystic Hot Springs, formerly Monroe Hot Springs, was once a sacred bathing ground for nomadic Native American tribes. The property was later settled in the 1880s by homesteaders, and structures from the original settlement can be seen today. Mike Ginsburg purchased the property in the 1990s and continues to make improvements and modifications. Visitors to Mystic Hot Springs shouldn’t expect a posh, fully appointed spa; this property is a creative work in progress. The pleasures of Mystic Hot Springs lie in its stunning mountain views, soothing waters and laid-back atmosphere.

Entering Mystic Hot Springs


Soaking Pools

The source of the water is a well head that sits at the top of the hill overlooking Mystic Hot Springs. Water spills into cast iron bathtubs, which offer beautiful views of the surrounding valley. Baths include one large concrete tub, which is about 4 feet deep when filled. Adjacent to the concrete soaking tub is a shallow pool that’s about 2 -3 feet deep and roughly 25 feet wide in places. This pool is surrounded by natural rock formations, encrusted with travertine mineral deposits. The bathtubs are perched at the top of the hill, a short climb up a fairly steep, rocky path. Bring an old pair of running shoes or amphibious shoes for the climb.

Three tubs not long before sunset.

The "shallow" pool.


The warmer concrete pool in the morning.

Water

According to the owner, Mike, calcium carbonate is one of the predominant minerals in the water at Mystic Hot Springs. Iron and magnesium are also in abundance, but we have no precise figures. The water is smooth and silky. The temperature of the pools ranges from 98°F to 110°F/37°C to 43°C, according to information from the Mystic Hot Springs website. At 5:00 p.m., the temperature in the shallow pool felt moderately warm (approximately 99°F/37°C), while the concrete pool was warmer at about 103°F/39°C. When we returned early the next morning, we found that the concrete pool was considerably hotter, probably close to 106°F/41°C, while the shallow pool was closer to 101°F/38°C. We found the water to particularly effective for relieving muscle pain and tension from driving, especially after our second soak.

Balneotherapy at its finest.

Accommodations

Mystic Hot Springs offers a variety of accommodations, all of which fall outside of the realm of the conventional. We stayed in the Nature Bus, a converted blue schoolbus that’s been airbrushed with a spectacular mural. The interior was cozy, but at the end of October, we found it a bit cold. We’re interested in checking out the cabins, which are apparently authentic historic structures that have been renovated by the owner. Camping and RV sites are available for travelers who carry their accommodations with them. Reservations are required for cabins or buses, but not for campers or RVs. We were able to get a next-day reservation for one of the buses, but the cabins probably need to be reserved further in advance. The town of Monroe is a short drive from the hot springs. We saw a few restaurants that looked intriguing, but we dined on homemade ham and cheese sandwiches in the Nature Bus. Fortunately, there was a hot plate for coffee.

The Nature Bus.

***

Resources

Mystic Hot Springs. Campsite, RV Park, Hot Springs and Recording Studio all in Monroe, Utah, USA.

Topozone. Map of Monroe Hot Springs Resort.

Utah Geological Survey. Geothermal Use, Resorts.

Utah Outdoor Activities. Mystic Hot Springs.

UtahAdventurer.com. Rest and Relax Pioneer Hippie Style at Monroe’s Mystic Hot Springs; Leslie Kawai; June 24, 2008.

UtahAdventurer.com. Rejuvenate at Monroe’s Mystic Hot Springs; Leslie Kawai; June 13, 2008.

Adventure Bus Blog. Mystic Hot Springs, UT; March 28, 2011.          

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October 30, 2011
by Anne Tourney
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Moroccan Stew

 

Moroccan Stew

Serves 6

4 Tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
4 – 6 cloves garlic, crushed or minced
l cup finely chopped fresh cilantro, or parsley
1 -  2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
4 – 6 oz. chopped lamb (omit meat for a vegetarian version or substitute 4 skinned, boneless chicken thighs)
5 medium tomatoes, chopped
1 19-oz. can chickpeas, drained, or 2 cups cooked chickpeas
2 medium carrots, cut into 1/2 inch long pieces
1 – 2 small parsnips, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch long pieces
2 – 3 medium potatoes, organic Golden Yukon, purple, etc., cut into cubes
1 sweet potato, cut into cubes
1/2 cup red lentils
1/2 cup raisins
1 teaspoon ground pepper
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon turmerlc
6 cups water

  1. Prepare all ingredients
  2. Heat oil in a large soup pot and sauté onion, garlic, cilantro and cayenne pepper—plus lamb or chicken if used—over medium heat for 10 minutes.
  3. Add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil.
  4. Lower heat and cook, simmering, for 60 minutes.

We decided to launch the “Recipes” section of The Soaking Life with this low-fat, savory stew that’s flavored with spices that are both exotic and therapeutic. Eric learned this recipe at a cooking class held by the Valley Food Co-Op, our local health food haven, last year. He’s been perfecting the formula ever since, adding details like organic purple potatoes and cayenne powder. He suggested using this stew to head our list of recommended recipes for several reasons:

  • The ingredients in Moroccan stew are low in fat and calories. Meat, if used, is added primarily to enhance flavor. High in fiber and rich in plant-based protein, this recipe is a natural way to promote healthy digestion while boosting energy.
  • For those who soak to relieve muscle pain or joint inflammation, this stew contains several ingredients that may offer anti-inflammatory properties. Ginger, allspice, turmeric, allspice and cayenne pepper are all reported to be herbal pain relievers. Garlic and onions, which contain sulfur-based compounds that may relieve inflammation and ease the symptoms of arthritis, are two of the primary sources of this stew’s rich flavor.
  •  The potatoes, legumes and tomatoes that make up the substance of the stew are rich in potassium, an essential mineral and electrolyte that promotes the health of your heart, nerves and bones.
  • Tomatoes are rich in vitamin C and lycopene, two anti-oxidants that may boost your immune system. Lycopene is a red, plant-based pigment that has been linked to lower rates of prostate cancer, heart disease and macular degeneration.  However, clinical evidence hasn’t verified whether the health benefits of a tomato-rich diet come from lycopene or from the potassium, folate, vitamin C and other nutrients.
  • Sweet potatoes and carrots are rich in beta-carotene. Like lycopene, beta-carotene is a plant-based pigment that belongs to the carotenoid family.  During digestion, the body converts betacarotene into vitamin A, which supports immunity and promotes healthy eyesight and wound healing.

We recommend a hot bowl of Moroccan stew on a frosty winter night after a long soak under a full moon.  Because the flavor and texture of Moroccan stew grow richer and more complex over time, you can enjoy leftovers for days.

*   *   *

 Sources

Linus Pauling Institute: Micronutrient Information Center. (2009) Carotenoids.

National Institutes of Health: National Center for Complementary and Alternative Medicine. (2010) Turmeric.

University of Maryland Medical Center. (2010) Ginger.

WHFoods. (2011) Garlic.

Photo by Eric Havelock-Bailie.

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